Showing posts with label fishing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fishing. Show all posts

Wednesday, 24 February 2016

Jotunheimen - home of the giants

Jotunheimen

This norwegian National Park is home to the 29 highest mountains of the country and has thus received it's name 'the home of the giants'. I was really excited to come here for the first time and see the landscape. Even though we have only been in one part of the region, I can say for sure that it's really the home of the most impressive mountains in Scandinavia. For the past days we have stayed in Gjendesheim, a hut by the Norwegian Trekking Association DNT. There is plenty to do around here, mostly on skis of course. 

It was overall a pretty nice experience, I must admit though that I feel more at home in some other parts of Scandinavia. The mountains in Jotunheimen are big and impressive, the distances between the huts are long and there are no apparent 'cozy' spots, just rugged rocks and steep cliffs. As amazing it is to look at this kind of landscape, it's not the type of terrain that I really feel comfortable in. It might be for a reason that the swedish are considered 'valley crawlers' (dalkrypare) compared to the norwegians, that move higher up in the mountains. For a trip where I spend a longer time outdoors camping and hiking or skiing, I really do prefer places with a good mix of interesting peaks and cozy forests where you can find some shelter against the wind. Probably good I'm living in Sweden and have all those lame little mountain areas in reach ;)

Here are some impressions! 

Early morning over lake Gjende

Trying to get through the 40cm thick ice to catch some fishies. 

Me, freezing inside my windsack. 


There are two persons inside this picture...



Digging a hole for a shelter

Lunch inside our self built shelter, away from the biting wind

The first sunbeams hit Besseggen

Same perspective at night

View from the way up to Bessvatnet





Another lunch, another wind protection


Here are two of the day tours we did.


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Friday, 18 December 2015

Nordkapp to Grövelsjön. 1800km, 110 days.

You can find an updated version of this guide HERE


A plan for the summer of 2016: Nordkapp to Grövelsjön



I researched and looked at maps during the last weeks and here are the possible stages for a combination from Gröna Bandet, Nordkalottleden, nortnernmost part of E1 (European Long Distance Footpath Norkapp to Sicily), Kungsleden and Norge på Langs:

All the parts that I have described in stages here are together around 1500km. That's already a bit. With the undecided part in the middle it will be about 1800km total, I suppose. If I walk an average of 20 kilometers a day (not calculating rest days), the whole thing will take 90 days. That doesn't even seem that much. I want to start as early as possible, of course. I will have to be patient and wait till the north is free of snow, but the areas close to the ocean should be walkable from the middle of June. 
If I start by the middle of June and give myself time till the end of September I would have 110 days, so 20 days extra (and I will need those cause I can't walk 20k everyday, unless I become incredibly strong and fit). Even without the stages between Kittelfjäll/ Grannes and Åre, I already have 86 stages, according to the plan above. That's cause some are 30km+ while others are under 10 kilometers. 

Besides that I could always make the trip faster by going the bigger part in Sweden and not in Norway. I think that the part between Sälka, where I leave Kungsleden, and Grannes, where I think about going to Kittelfjäll, would take me about half of the time, if I just continued on Kungsleden. It's much less kilometers, less elevation and an easy to follow, flat trampled trail. 
But if it was all just about taking the easiest, shortest, most convenient way and "saving time"- well, then I can just stay at home instead. 

Bold words mean places where I can restock on food or at least buy a meal. There won't be too many of those during the first part of the trip...
Of course I will camp all along the trip and only occasionally sleep in a hut. I still orientated my daily stretches to huts, for the sake of having a point of reference. 

Nordkapp to Kautokeino / 330km

  1. Nordkapp -> Skarsvågskrysset 13km / no supplies / no accomodation Start off with food for about ten days, and buy some extra on stage 6, 11 and 13
  2. Skarsvågskrysset -> Veidneset 19km / no supplies / no accomodation
  3. Veidneset -> through the Nordkapp tunnel to Vesterpollen. Depending on the traffic...
  4. Vesterpollen -> Vardancohka 25km / no supplies / Very basic hut with space for 2 persons along the E1-route. No oven.
  5. Vardancohka -> Stohpojohka 26km / no supplies/ Open reindeer herder hut with 4-5 beds. There's a stove but not always firewood. 
  6. Stohpojohka -> Hattir Ost 22km / supplies and accomodation 5km from the trail: Olderfjord hotell Russenes Caming (private) Open in summer season. 29 roomas and 14 huts. Includes retaurant. A bit south of Olderfjord there is a Statiol gas station that has a fair sortiment of food. The shop closes at 7pm. Transport: Bus towards Russenes passes the parking Hattir Øst  kl 16 20. More info: www.olderfjord.no/en/home Tlf.: + 47 78 46 37 11
  7. Hattir Ost -> Duolbajarcopma 33km / no supplies / no accomodation
  8. Duolbajarcopma -> Bastingammen 23km / no supplies / no accomodation (small hut is closed?)
  9. Bastingammen -> Rukkujavri 24km / no supplies / no accomodation
  10. Rukkujavri -> Bojobeaskihytta 21km / no supplies/ Bojobeaskihytta (Alta Turlag) Locked with a DNT standard key, 8 beds. 
  11. Bojobeaskihytta ->  Mollesjohka Fjellstue 32km / 54 beds, food available but best to be ordered beforehand. 
  12. Mollesjohka Fjellstue -> Ragesluoppal 17km / no supplies/ simple hut with 4 beds.
  13. Ragesluoppal -> Masi 26km / Masi Turistsenter (private) Renting out huts, closes at 7pm. Warm meals can be bought in the café. There is a store next to the church. 
  14. Masi -> Biggejavri 20km / no supplies / no accomodation
  15. Biggejavri -> Mierojavri 27km / no supplies / no accomodation
  16. Mierojavri -> Kautokeino 17km / Food and a soft bed! Buy resupplies for the next 10 days or have a box with food sent from home.                                                                                                            
                                    

  Kautokeino to Kilpisjärvi / 190km                                                                                                 

  1. Kautokeino -> Cunovuohppi 18km / Madam Bongos fjellstue (private) several huts to rent Tlf.: 481 06 003 Meals can be bought. 
  2. Cunovuohppi -> Reisavannhytta 30km / no supplies / Reisavannhytta (Statskog) Locked hut with 6 beds. Booking over inatur.no 
  3. Reisavannhytta -> Nedrefosshytta 30km / no supplies / Nedrefosshytta (Troms Turlag) Hut with 16 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
  4. Nedrefosshytta -> Saraelv 28km / no supplies / Ovi Raishiin, Gammetunet Hut with 4 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
  5. Saraelv -> Somashytta 31km / no supplies / Somashytta (Statskog) Open hut with 6 beds. 
  6. Somashytta -> Pitsusjärvi 15km / no supplies / Open hut with 12 beds. Simple standard, oven, wood. 
  7. Pitusjärvi -> Meekonjärvi 10km / no supplies/  Open hut with 6 beds. Simple standard, oven, wood. 
  8. Meekonjärvi -> Kuinarjohki 10km / no supplies/  Open hut with 14 beds. Simple standard, oven, wood. 
  9. Kuinarjohki -> Saarijärvi 10km / no supplies /  Open hut with 10 beds. Simple standard, oven, wood.  
  10. Saarijärvi -> Kilpisjärvi 15km / Kilpisjärven Retkeilykeskus (private) Rooms and huts for rent. Restaurant, kitchen and supermarket.
Have food sent from home to the Hiking Center www.kilpisjarvi.info     
    
                 

Kilpisjärvi to Abisko / 190km

  1. Kilpisjärvi – Treriksrøysa – Goldahytta 15km / no supplies / Goldahytta (Troms Turlag) Hut with 22 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
  2. Goldahytta -> Gappohytta 13km / no supplies / Gappohytta (Troms Turlag) Hut with 20 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
  3. Gappohytta -> Rostahytta 20km / no supplies/ Rostahytta (Troms Turlag) Hut with 33 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
  4. Rostahytta -> Daertahytta 17km / no supplies/ Dærtahytta (Troms Turlag) Hut with 24 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
  5. Daertahytta -> Dividalshytta 24km / no supplies/ Dividalshytta (Troms Turlag) Hut with 20 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
  6. Dividalshytta -> Vuomahytta 18km / no supplies/ Vuomahytta (Troms Turlag) Hut with 20 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
  7. Vuomahytta -> Gaskashytta 17km / no supplies/ Gaskashytta (Troms Turlag) Hut with 20 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
  8. Gaskashytta -> Altevasshytta 12km / no supplies/ Altevasahytta (Troms Turlag) Hut with 17 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
  9. Altevasshytta -> Lappjordhytta 24km / no supplies/ Lappjordhytta (Troms Turlag) Hut with 164beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
  10. Lappjordhytta -> Abisko Turiststation 25km / Food, a restaurant, a shop a warm bed! Have food sent from home to STF Abisko Turiststation
     

Abisko to Ritsem / 115 km                                                        

  1. STF Fjällstation Abisko -> Abiskojaure 15km / shop in Abiskojaure huts, sauna
  2. STF stuga Abiskojaure -> Alesjaure 20km / shop in Alesjaure huts, sauna
  3. STF stuga Alesjaure -> Tjäktja 13km / no shop in the hut
  4. STF stuga Tjäktja -> Sälka 13km / shop and sauna
  5. STF stuga Sälka -> Hukejaure 25km / no shop in the hut
  6. STF stuga Hukejaure -> Sitasjaure 19km / no shop in the hut
  7. STF stuga Sitasjaure -> Ritsem 22km Have food sent from home to STF Ritsem Turiststation    
 

Ritsem to Sulitjelma / 115 km                   

  1. STF Fjällstation Ritsem boat to Akkastugorna 
  2. STF stuga Akka -> Kisuris 14km 
  3. Kisuris -> Låddejåkka 23km / little shop by the hut and in the Sámi village
  4. Låddejåkka -> Arasluokta 13km / little shop by the hut and in the Sámi village
  5. Arasluokta -> Staloluokta 12km / little shop by the hut and in the Sámi village
  6. Staloluokta -> Staddajåkkå 12km / no shop in the hut
  7. Staddajåkkå -> Sårjåsjaure 6km / no shop in the hut
  8. Sårjåsjaure -> Sorjushytta 19km / no shop in the hut
  9. Sorjushytta -> Ny-Sulitjelma Fjellstue 16km/ Buying food in Sulitjelma or in Fauske
   

Sulitjelma to Lønsdal / 90 km                               

  1. Sulitjelma -> Lomihytta 5km / no shop in the hut
  2. Lomihytta -> Calalveshytta 12km / no supplies/ Calalveshytta (Sulitjelma og OmegnTuristforening) Hut with 25 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
  3.  Calalveshytta -> Coarvihytta 12km / no supplies / Coarveshytta (Sulitjelma og OmegnTuristforening) Hut with 4 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
  4. Coarvihytta -> Balvasshytta / 20km / no supplies / Balvasshytta (Sulitjelma og OmegnTuristforening) Hut with 4 beds, locked with DNT standard key.
  5. Balvasshytta -> Argaladhytta 10km / no supplies/ Argaladhytta (Bodø og Omegns Turistforening) Hut with 7 beds, locked with DNT standard key.
  6. Argaladhytta -> Trygvebu 8km / no supplies/ Trygvebu (Bodø og Omegns Turistforening) Hut with 20 beds, locked with DNT standard key.
  7. Trygvebu -> Graddis Fjellstue 8km / Graddis ligger øverst i Junkerdale ikke langt fra svenskegrensa. Her passerer Grensesømmen og det er fjellstue, camping og vandrerhjem. Stedet har helårs bilvei. Overnatting i lavsesong bare etter forhåndsbestilling. Telefon i sesong: 75 69 43 41
  8. Graddis Fjellstue -> Lønstua 15km / Restaurant in Saltfjellet Hotel Polarsirkelen Lønstua (Bodø og Omegns Turistforening) Hut with 30 beds, locked with DNT standard key. Get food sent from home to Saltfjellet Hotel
 

Lønsdal to Umbukta Fjellstue / 140 km

  1. Lønstua -> Saltfjellstua 24km / no supplies / Saltfjellstua (Rana Turistforening) Hut with 20 beds, locked with DNT standard key.
  2. Saltfjellstua -> Krukkistua 5km / no supplies / Krukkistua (Rana Turistforening) Hut with 8 beds, locked with DNT standard key.
  3. Krukkistua -> Bolnastua 27km / no supplies/ Bolnastua (Rana Turistforening) Hut with 13 beds, locked with DNT standard key.
  4. Bolnastua -> Virvasshytta 27km / no supplies/ Virvasshytta (Rana Turistforening) Hut with 16 beds, locked with DNT standard key.
  5. Virvasshytta -> Kvisteindalstunet 23km /no supplies/ Kvitsteindalstunet (Rana Turistforening) Hut with 10 beds, locked with DNT standard key.
  6. Kvisteindalstunet -> Sauvasshytta 23km / no supplies/ Sauvasshytta (Rana Turistforening) Hut with 9 beds, locked with DNT standard key.
  7. Sauvasshytta -> Umbukta Fjellstue 12km / Café, restaurant, accomodatio year round. Booking: 951 951 31 / 957 990 58 Get a box with food from home to Umbukta Fjellstue


Umbukta Fjellstue to Unkervatnet Camping / 110 km

  1. Umbukta Fjellstue -> Kjennsvasshytta 12km / no supplies/ Kjennsvasshytta (Hemnes Turistforening) 28 beds
  2. Kjennsvasshytta -> Gressvasshytta 12 km / no supplies / Gressvasshytta (Hemnes Turistforening) 14 beds
  3. Gressvasshytta -> Steikvasselv Gård 12km / Meals and supplies are available but must be booked beforehand  Tlf.:  +47 916 70 540/ +47 915 56 282
  4. Steikvasselv -> Sivertgården 21km / no supplies/ Sivertgården (privat) Accomodation to be booked beforehand Tlf.: +47 75 18 51 43
  5. Sivertgården -> Krutvatnet 20km / no supplies/ Krutvasshytta (Statskog) Åpen, 4 beds
  6. Krutvatnet -> Tverrelvnes 22km / no supplies/ Tverrelvnes (privat) 12 beds.
  7. Tverrelvnes -> Unkervatnet Camping 12km / no supplies/ Grannes Camping (privat) 12 Huts with 2 to 6 beds each.

I haven't decided yet how to continue after Grannes Camping. If I continue in Norway I will come to a stretch without any resupplies and without a marked trail for about 300km. Grannes Camping is right next to the roas that goes over to Sweden. Where I could continue on a trail from Kittelfjäll to the south. But even here I will come upon an inconvenient stretch, south of Gäddede I will basically have to walk on the road for a really long time. 
I'm happy for any suggestion how to get past this stretch in the fastest and most comfortable way. 

From Åre to Grövelsjön / 200 km

  1. Åre -> Vålådalen about 30km street
  2. Vålådalen -> Stensdalen 13km/ STF hut with supplies
  3. Stensdalen -> Gåsen 16km / STF hut with supplies 
  4. Gåsen -> Helags 18km / STF Fjällstation with sauna, restaurant,..
  5. Helags -> Fältjägaren 12km / STF hut with supplies 
  6. Fältjägaren -> Ramundberget 16km / Youth Hostel with supplies
  7. Ramundberget -> Tänndalen 20km / Youth Hostel with supplies
  8. Tänndalen -> Skedbro 21km / STF hut with supplies 
  9. Skedro -> Rogen 17km / STF hut with supplies 
  10. Rogen -> Storrödtjärn 17km /  STF hut with supplies 
  11. Storrödtjärn -> Hävlingen 9km / no supplies (as if this would matter at this point...)
  12. Hävlingen -> Motherfuckin' Grövelsjön! 13km


Two good old STF maps that have unfortunately been taken offline when they renewed their website.

Thursday, 26 November 2015

Resuming 2015, part 4: autumn in Sweden.

This is the last part of what is like a summary of my outdoors 2015. Since the year is not over yet, this part will stop by the end of November, and there's still another adventure to be had! 

Back in october I went to a Bushcaft course that was specialized on axe skills, given by Nordic Bushcraft, close to Jönköping. I learned a lot of useful basics when it comes to handling a tool like an axe. Those things can be damn dangerous if you don't know how to use them and one single mistake can be the end of your foot or hand. We even did a lot of different fires, which is something I'm really into. There are so many different ways of starting a campfire, depending on the materials and situation. On the pictures below you see a fire which i call a flame-baguette. It's a traditional Sámi fire, that was/is used to stay warm during the night, while you are sleeping. It burns slowly and does not spread too much heat. 
For all of you who speak Swedish I can even recommend the book Eld from the author Yngve Ryd, in which he interviews a row of Sámi people who talk about their knowledge about different fires among other interesting topics regarding the Sámi culture. 



Other things we did on this weekend were: eating a lot of bacon and egg and building some tools. This bowsaw, that you can see on the second picture, took me several attempts. Bending the branch, that I chopped of a fir over the fire was not that hard, but getting the metal part screwed into the branch without breaking the wood was not quite that easy. 



On another weekend in october I went to Tresticklan Nationalpark, which is located just by the Norwegian border, only two hours of a drive north of Gothenburg. It seems to me like it's one of the 29 Swedish nationalparks that tend to be forgotten, or the least to say: less popular. 
It's my goal to visit all of the nationalparks, so I figured out this one was the next on my list, since it's not too far away and it seems to be a fitting place for an autumn hike. We walked from the parking into the forest and it was a really magical, green, mossy forest. I always especially like it when I know there could be a lot of wild animals around, even when I usually don't get to see them. In Tresticklan there are wolves, lynx and sometimes even bears, just to list some of the predators. 
We walked about 5km through the forest to come to the Norwegian border, which runs through a little stream. There's a cute little sign on the middle of the bridge, which you see on a picture below. Despite the short walk we had decided to spend the night in Budalsvika hut, which also belongs to DNT. It felt like a real adventure spending a night in a forest hut, without electricity, phone reception or running water. It was a bit scary but also quite cozy. 




Budalsvika, a hut from the Norwegian Hiking Association (DNT)

If you want to enter the building you need to order a key that fits these locks, same in huts all over Norway. 

The cute, little border between Norway and Sweden.

In the end of October I was lucky enough to get a week off from work and me and my friend Lea went on a trip to Dalarna and Norway. We drove about 700km to Grövelsjön, a little village with Sweden's most southern mountain station and the offical beginning of the Scandinavian Mountains inside Sweden. We spend the first nights in the STF mountain station and did some day hikes around. The weather was brilliant, not a single moment of rain. Unfortunately there was no snow yet either.
Me looking at Städjan




After two days of warming up we hiked over the mountains to Hävlingen, a hut 15km away from the next sroad and as well without any electricity. It was expecially exciting since it was Halloween and we were probably the only people to be around and the first ones to come there in some weeks. It actually felt a bit creepy. It didn't get better when we realized that there was no petroleum lantern or candles and we were having 16 hours of darkenss ahead of us. Oh, and also you couldn't lock the door. In the end it turned out to be a nice evening: we had our headlights and some small candles I found in my pack, and we lit a cozy fire in the oven. It was a really nice expeience and it centrainly wouldn't have been the same if I went on my own. 



I want to come back here when there's snow and ice everywhere... And also in summer to paddle around on the lake and cath some fat fishies....

Evening light at 2.30pm.


The day after we went over to Norway, more exactly to Femundsmarka Nasjonalpark and spent the night in a little hut in Elgå. Our plan was to hike into the nationalpark and sleep over in the forest. In the end we changed our minds and decided to climb the peak on the highest mountain around, Elgåhogna with 1640m over sealevel. It was an awesome tour, quite a lot of gravel and a steep slope closer to the top. Once we were on the peak we could see all over the area, at least some 50km into every direction. It was really awesome- until my camera broke. So half of the pictures I upload here are actually taken with my old iPhone 4. 


Taking a closer look the map

Start of the trail to the top

The views get better





it's always a good feeling to have achieved something. Even more with weather like this in the first week of November, 


Later in November Lea visited us and we spent a day fishing and sitting by the campfire. You don't always have to drive far away to have a little adventure or spend a day that makes you feel glad. As you can see on the picture below we were embarassing enough to all wear the same hat. But to be honest this Norrøna wool hat is like the warmest and coziest thing that ever touched my head. Also I was the one who had it first!