Nordkapp to Grövelsjön. 1800km, 110 days.

You can find an updated version of this guide HERE

A plan for the summer of 2016: Nordkapp to Grövelsjön

I researched and looked at maps during the last weeks and here are the possible stages for a combination from Gröna Bandet, Nordkalottleden, nortnernmost part of E1 (European Long Distance Footpath Norkapp to Sicily), Kungsleden and Norge på Langs:

All the parts that I have described in stages here are together around 1500km. That's already a bit. With the undecided part in the middle it will be about 1800km total, I suppose. If I walk an average of 20 kilometers a day (not calculating rest days), the whole thing will take 90 days. That doesn't even seem that much. I want to start as early as possible, of course. I will have to be patient and wait till the north is free of snow, but the areas close to the ocean should be walkable from the middle of June. 

If I start by the middle of June and give myself time till the end of September I would have 110 days, so 20 days extra (and I will need those cause I can't walk 20k everyday, unless I become incredibly strong and fit). Even without the stages between Kittelfjäll/ Grannes and Åre, I already have 86 stages, according to the plan above. That's cause some are 30km+ while others are under 10 kilometers. 

Besides that I could always make the trip faster by going the bigger part in Sweden and not in Norway. I think that the part between Sälka, where I leave Kungsleden, and Grannes, where I think about going to Kittelfjäll, would take me about half of the time, if I just continued on Kungsleden. It's much less kilometers, less elevation and an easy to follow, flat trampled trail. 

But if it was all just about taking the easiest, shortest, most convenient way and "saving time"- well, then I can just stay at home instead. 

Bold words mean places where I can restock on food or at least buy a meal. There won't be too many of those during the first part of the trip...
Of course I will camp all along the trip and only occasionally sleep in a hut. I still orientated my daily stretches to huts, for the sake of having a point of reference. 

Nordkapp to Kautokeino / 330km

1. Nordkapp -> Skarsvågskrysset 13km / no supplies / no accomodation Start off with food for about ten days, and buy some extra on stage 6, 11 and 13
2. Skarsvågskrysset -> Veidneset 19km / no supplies / no accomodation
3. Veidneset -> through the Nordkapp tunnel to Vesterpollen. Depending on the traffic...
4. Vesterpollen -> Vardancohka 25km / no supplies / Very basic hut with space for 2 persons along the E1-route. No oven.
5. Vardancohka -> Stohpojohka 26km / no supplies/ Open reindeer herder hut with 4-5 beds. There's a stove but not always firewood. 
6. Stohpojohka -> Hattir Ost 22km / supplies and accomodation 5km from the trail: Olderfjord hotell Russenes Caming (private) Open in summer season. 29 roomas and 14 huts. Includes retaurant. A bit south of Olderfjord there is a Statiol gas station that has a fair sortiment of food. The shop closes at 7pm. Transport: Bus towards Russenes passes the parking Hattir Øst  kl 16 20. More info: www.olderfjord.no/en/home Tlf.: + 47 78 46 37 11
7. Hattir Ost -> Duolbajarcopma 33km / no supplies / no accomodation
8. Duolbajarcopma -> Bastingammen 23km / no supplies / no accomodation (small hut is closed?)
9. Bastingammen -> Rukkujavri 24km / no supplies / no accomodation
10. Rukkujavri -> Bojobeaskihytta 21km / no supplies/ Bojobeaskihytta (Alta Turlag) Locked with a DNT standard key, 8 beds. 
11. Bojobeaskihytta ->  Mollesjohka Fjellstue 32km / 54 beds, food available but best to be ordered beforehand. 
12. Mollesjohka Fjellstue -> Ragesluoppal 17km / no supplies/ simple hut with 4 beds.
13. Ragesluoppal -> Masi 26km / Masi Turistsenter (private) Renting out huts, closes at 7pm. Warm meals can be bought in the café. There is a store next to the church. 
14. Masi -> Biggejavri 20km / no supplies / no accomodation
15. Biggejavri -> Mierojavri 27km / no supplies / no accomodation
16. Mierojavri -> Kautokeino 17km / Food and a soft bed! Buy resupplies for the next 10 days or have a box with food sent from home.                                                                                                            
    
                                    

  Kautokeino to Kilpisjärvi / 190km                                                                                                 

1. Kautokeino -> Cunovuohppi 18km / Madam Bongos fjellstue (private) several huts to rent Tlf.: 481 06 003 Meals can be bought. 
2. Cunovuohppi -> Reisavannhytta 30km / no supplies / Reisavannhytta (Statskog) Locked hut with 6 beds. Booking over inatur.no 
3. Reisavannhytta -> Nedrefosshytta 30km / no supplies / Nedrefosshytta (Troms Turlag) Hut with 16 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
4. Nedrefosshytta -> Saraelv 28km / no supplies / Ovi Raishiin, Gammetunet Hut with 4 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
5. Saraelv -> Somashytta 31km / no supplies / Somashytta (Statskog) Open hut with 6 beds. 
6. Somashytta -> Pitsusjärvi 15km / no supplies / Open hut with 12 beds. Simple standard, oven, wood. 
7. Pitusjärvi -> Meekonjärvi 10km / no supplies/  Open hut with 6 beds. Simple standard, oven, wood. 
8. Meekonjärvi -> Kuinarjohki 10km / no supplies/  Open hut with 14 beds. Simple standard, oven, wood. 
9. Kuinarjohki -> Saarijärvi 10km / no supplies /  Open hut with 10 beds. Simple standard, oven, wood.  
10. Saarijärvi -> Kilpisjärvi 15km / Kilpisjärven Retkeilykeskus (private) Rooms and huts for rent. Restaurant, kitchen and supermarket.

Have food sent from home to the Hiking Center www.kilpisjarvi.info     

    

                 

Kilpisjärvi to Abisko / 190km

1. Kilpisjärvi – Treriksrøysa – Goldahytta 15km / no supplies / Goldahytta (Troms Turlag) Hut with 22 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
2. Goldahytta -> Gappohytta 13km / no supplies / Gappohytta (Troms Turlag) Hut with 20 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
3. Gappohytta -> Rostahytta 20km / no supplies/ Rostahytta (Troms Turlag) Hut with 33 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
4. Rostahytta -> Daertahytta 17km / no supplies/ Dærtahytta (Troms Turlag) Hut with 24 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
5. Daertahytta -> Dividalshytta 24km / no supplies/ Dividalshytta (Troms Turlag) Hut with 20 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
6. Dividalshytta -> Vuomahytta 18km / no supplies/ Vuomahytta (Troms Turlag) Hut with 20 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
7. Vuomahytta -> Gaskashytta 17km / no supplies/ Gaskashytta (Troms Turlag) Hut with 20 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
8. Gaskashytta -> Altevasshytta 12km / no supplies/ Altevasahytta (Troms Turlag) Hut with 17 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
9. Altevasshytta -> Lappjordhytta 24km / no supplies/ Lappjordhytta (Troms Turlag) Hut with 164beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
10. Lappjordhytta -> Abisko Turiststation 25km / Food, a restaurant, a shop a warm bed! Have food sent from home to STF Abisko Turiststation

     

Abisko to Ritsem / 115 km                                                        

1. STF Fjällstation Abisko -> Abiskojaure 15km / shop in Abiskojaure huts, sauna
2. STF stuga Abiskojaure -> Alesjaure 20km / shop in Alesjaure huts, sauna
3. STF stuga Alesjaure -> Tjäktja 13km / no shop in the hut
4. STF stuga Tjäktja -> Sälka 13km / shop and sauna
5. STF stuga Sälka -> Hukejaure 25km / no shop in the hut
6. STF stuga Hukejaure -> Sitasjaure 19km / no shop in the hut
7. STF stuga Sitasjaure -> Ritsem 22km Have food sent from home to STF Ritsem Turiststation    

 

Ritsem to Sulitjelma / 115 km                   

1. STF Fjällstation Ritsem boat to Akkastugorna 
2. STF stuga Akka -> Kisuris 14km 
3. Kisuris -> Låddejåkka 23km / little shop by the hut and in the Sámi village
4. Låddejåkka -> Arasluokta 13km / little shop by the hut and in the Sámi village
5. Arasluokta -> Staloluokta 12km / little shop by the hut and in the Sámi village
6. Staloluokta -> Staddajåkkå 12km / no shop in the hut
7. Staddajåkkå -> Sårjåsjaure 6km / no shop in the hut
8. Sårjåsjaure -> Sorjushytta 19km / no shop in the hut
9. Sorjushytta -> Ny-Sulitjelma Fjellstue 16km/ Buying food in Sulitjelma or in Fauske

   

Sulitjelma to Lønsdal / 90 km                               

1. Sulitjelma -> Lomihytta 5km / no shop in the hut
2. Lomihytta -> Calalveshytta 12km / no supplies/ Calalveshytta (Sulitjelma og OmegnTuristforening) Hut with 25 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
3.  Calalveshytta -> Coarvihytta 12km / no supplies / Coarveshytta (Sulitjelma og OmegnTuristforening) Hut with 4 beds, locked with DNT standard key. 
4. Coarvihytta -> Balvasshytta / 20km / no supplies / Balvasshytta (Sulitjelma og OmegnTuristforening) Hut with 4 beds, locked with DNT standard key.
5. Balvasshytta -> Argaladhytta 10km / no supplies/ Argaladhytta (Bodø og Omegns Turistforening) Hut with 7 beds, locked with DNT standard key.
6. Argaladhytta -> Trygvebu 8km / no supplies/ Trygvebu (Bodø og Omegns Turistforening) Hut with 20 beds, locked with DNT standard key.
7. Trygvebu -> Graddis Fjellstue 8km / Graddis ligger øverst i Junkerdale ikke langt fra svenskegrensa. Her passerer Grensesømmen og det er fjellstue, camping og vandrerhjem. Stedet har helårs bilvei. Overnatting i lavsesong bare etter forhåndsbestilling. Telefon i sesong: 75 69 43 41
8. Graddis Fjellstue -> Lønstua 15km / Restaurant in Saltfjellet Hotel Polarsirkelen Lønstua (Bodø og Omegns Turistforening) Hut with 30 beds, locked with DNT standard key. Get food sent from home to Saltfjellet Hotel

 

Lønsdal to Umbukta Fjellstue / 140 km

1. Lønstua -> Saltfjellstua 24km / no supplies / Saltfjellstua (Rana Turistforening) Hut with 20 beds, locked with DNT standard key.
2. Saltfjellstua -> Krukkistua 5km / no supplies / Krukkistua (Rana Turistforening) Hut with 8 beds, locked with DNT standard key.
3. Krukkistua -> Bolnastua 27km / no supplies/ Bolnastua (Rana Turistforening) Hut with 13 beds, locked with DNT standard key.
4. Bolnastua -> Virvasshytta 27km / no supplies/ Virvasshytta (Rana Turistforening) Hut with 16 beds, locked with DNT standard key.
5. Virvasshytta -> Kvisteindalstunet 23km /no supplies/ Kvitsteindalstunet (Rana Turistforening) Hut with 10 beds, locked with DNT standard key.
6. Kvisteindalstunet -> Sauvasshytta 23km / no supplies/ Sauvasshytta (Rana Turistforening) Hut with 9 beds, locked with DNT standard key.
7. Sauvasshytta -> Umbukta Fjellstue 12km / Café, restaurant, accomodatio year round. Booking: 951 951 31 / 957 990 58 Get a box with food from home to Umbukta Fjellstue

Umbukta Fjellstue to Unkervatnet Camping / 110 km

1. Umbukta Fjellstue -> Kjennsvasshytta 12km / no supplies/ Kjennsvasshytta (Hemnes Turistforening) 28 beds
2. Kjennsvasshytta -> Gressvasshytta 12 km / no supplies / Gressvasshytta (Hemnes Turistforening) 14 beds
3. Gressvasshytta -> Steikvasselv Gård 12km / Meals and supplies are available but must be booked beforehand  Tlf.:  +47 916 70 540/ +47 915 56 282
4. Steikvasselv -> Sivertgården 21km / no supplies/ Sivertgården (privat) Accomodation to be booked beforehand Tlf.: +47 75 18 51 43
5. Sivertgården -> Krutvatnet 20km / no supplies/ Krutvasshytta (Statskog) Åpen, 4 beds
6. Krutvatnet -> Tverrelvnes 22km / no supplies/ Tverrelvnes (privat) 12 beds.
7. Tverrelvnes -> Unkervatnet Camping 12km / no supplies/ Grannes Camping (privat) 12 Huts with 2 to 6 beds each.

I haven't decided yet how to continue after Grannes Camping. If I continue in Norway I will come to a stretch without any resupplies and without a marked trail for about 300km. Grannes Camping is right next to the roas that goes over to Sweden. Where I could continue on a trail from Kittelfjäll to the south. But even here I will come upon an inconvenient stretch, south of Gäddede I will basically have to walk on the road for a really long time. 

I'm happy for any suggestion how to get past this stretch in the fastest and most comfortable way. 

From Åre to Grövelsjön / 200 km

1. Åre -> Vålådalen about 30km street
2. Vålådalen -> Stensdalen 13km/ STF hut with supplies
3. Stensdalen -> Gåsen 16km / STF hut with supplies 
4. Gåsen -> Helags 18km / STF Fjällstation with sauna, restaurant,..
5. Helags -> Fältjägaren 12km / STF hut with supplies 
6. Fältjägaren -> Ramundberget 16km / Youth Hostel with supplies
7. Ramundberget -> Tänndalen 20km / Youth Hostel with supplies
8. Tänndalen -> Skedbro 21km / STF hut with supplies 
9. Skedro -> Rogen 17km / STF hut with supplies 
10. Rogen -> Storrödtjärn 17km /  STF hut with supplies 
11. Storrödtjärn -> Hävlingen 9km / no supplies (as if this would matter at this point...)
12. Hävlingen -> Motherfuckin' Grövelsjön! 13km

Two good old STF maps that have unfortunately been taken offline when they renewed their website.

Dreaming about next year's big hike

The incredible feeling of finishing a trail, of coming to the top. 

Now in December the days are short and dark. The best thing, especially at work, is to dream about my plans for next year. At this point I don't want to call it "planning" yet, cause I still haven't decided for a specific hike. 

A big inspiration for me is the norwegian adventurer Lars Monsen, who has spent years of his life in the Scandinavian wilderness. I recently got two of his books and especially the story about his year long hike through Norway is an absolute inspiration. In 1988 he and his friend Trond decided to walk along the Norwegian border, all the way from Russia to the south of the country. Even considering that the conditions have changed a lot since then, the book gives me the awesome feeling that I can make happen anything that I dream about. 

Mixing up languages- one in German one in Norwegian

 I can't even say what attracts me so much about a long hike. I guess it's the feeling of adventure, of doing something unusual, outside of the time frame of a normal holiday. Also it's the concept of "holiday" that I don't like. Holiday is a week or so to take a rest and get a break from work in order to relax. What I want to do is (at least in my mind) not a holiday. It's not an expedition either, since others have done it before, it's an adventure, a task that I give myself, an experience I want to have in my life. 

Of course I can't even be sure I will stick to my plan. What if I get tired of walking? If I start to feel bored, worn out, if my body hurts, if I feel lonely or lost? 

I know all these things can and most of them will happen, to some extend at least. What I will try is to overcome the negative feelings, wait it out, see if it gets better and maybe afterwards realize how overcoming these problems made me stronger. 

Even giving up before finishing the hike is of course a possibility but I will try to avoid that, of course. One thing that can help to overcome situations in which I will want to give up is for instance this blog, or signing up for an "official" hike, such as Gröna Bandet or Norge på Langs. Knowing that there is something specific to archieve, that I can count the kilometers backwards to point X and that some people are virtually following my trip is definitely a huge motivation. 

Other than that, signing up for anything seems a bit pointless of course, since I would need to follow specific rules, which takes away a part of the freedom of the hike. But because of the motivational aspect I will probably still do it. 

Plans for a big hike in 2016

On a rainy, dark evening, between to long work days, there's nothing better than dreaming about what to do next year!

My goal is to go on one longer tour, outside of the dimensions of what I usually do. Most hikes I've done resume around a week or 100km, but I want to know how it feels to be on tour for a longer time and achieve something bigger. I don't dare yet to put this tour into winter time and go on a long backcountry ski tour. It would feel like I'm not experienced enough when it comes to camping in the snow or dealing with a storm which forces me to dig a snowhole, to wait it out. I will definitely do a winter tour, but it will be something shorter and probably involve sleeping in huts. 

For the summer I have had several ideas: Nordkalottleden, that goes 800km through Norway, Finland and Sweden, Gröna Bandet, from Grövelsjön in Dalarna to Treriksröset, the most northern point of Sweden, or even Norge på Langs. 

Thoughts of the advantages or disadvantages of these tours so far: Nordkalottleden seems to be quite doable and I feel like I know the area already quite well. Part of it is the northern terminus of Kungsleden, the stretch from Abisko to Singi, about 100km. Another part of about 70km is shared with Padjelantaleden, which I hiked last summer. Overall the trail doesn't cut straight through the landscape but wiggles around. The aim is not to come a long way from one point to another but to experience a lot of different places, switching from one country to another. 

Here's a map of Nordkalottleden

I think I would really enjoy this trail, at the same time it just doesn't pose the adventure and challenge that Gröna Bandet or Norge på Langs, does. On these two trails you always know what you are going for: to cross the whole country, or at least the whole mountain range. I like this kind of feeling. It's this possibiliy to complete something, to have finished something from the beginning to the end. I find this very satisfying. 

Gröna Bandet (the green ribbon)

I just drew this line on the map to show more or less how it does look. It's not a single trail designated as Gröna Bandet but there's an abundancy of different trails, that one can make use of. So I could choose to take the easiest, quickest way through, or even do the whole Nordkalottleden on the northern end. Without taking any bigger detours the trip whould resume itself at about 1300 to 1400km. 

There is an organized way to tackle this challenge, it's basically a website where you sign up and have to go with a GPS so you can be tracked all along the way. You can find it on www.vitagronabandet.se

I'm not so sure yet if I would do that. On one hand there's no real need to sign up for something like that, you can just do in on your own. On the other hand knowing that your blog is featured on their page and that they even follow you with facebook posts etc. can give that extra little pressure that one needs to make it through a tough day. Giving up gets a little bit harder. 

When it comes to Norge på Langs this is the trail I know the least about. It's really long. 

Last summer I met a Swiss guy who was doing this hike and it kind of inspired me. According to www.norgepaalangs.info only 320 people have completed this trail, and that since 1951! Yes, that's a real motivation. 

I'm not sure how long it would take and I think it would be about twice as long as the hike through the Swedish mountains, so about 2600km. It should be doable in about 4 to 5 months I guess. This one I would definitely only tackle with a hiking partner. If you're interested, just write me! ;)

Here's apicture from the webpage I linked above, that shows how it could look:

Norge på Langs