Showing posts with label Outdoor. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Outdoor. Show all posts

Tuesday, 29 March 2016

Pilgrimage to Santiago- the journey is the goal


Before I discovered hiking, it was the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in northern Spain, that fueled my outdoors dreams. For several years I had seen the pilgrims walking past my window or overtook them in my car, on the search for waves to surf. When one is comfortably sitting behind the wheel and making more kilometers in an hour than a pilgrim in a week, walking seems really tough. Sometimes 
I felt pity for the tired people trudging alongside the road, with a heavy pack on their back. Still it always nagged me to see the roadsigns that contained information for the pilgrims, or a tiny path, leading fromt he national road into the forest, with an arrow or a scallop on it. It felt like a true adventure, like an undertaking that I couldn't grasp without doing it myself. 

I saw pilgrims on usy beaches, where they seemed out of place, wearing boots and fully clothed. I saw them fighting for their space on the serpentines of the mountaineous national road, being relentlessly overtaken by trucks. Yes, I pitied them - and still I was longing for this adventure. 



In 2011 I finally decided to give it a try. As the starting day I chose my birthday, in late September. I was thrilled but equally anxious. What if I didn't find the trail? What if I got lost?
Without having ever done something similar, I just couldn't picture what was awaiting me. I took the train to Valença (not to mix up with Valencia) by the portuguese-spanish border and made my way from the train station to the albergue (the pilgrims hostel), where I was going to spend the night. Was I a pilgrim? I couldn't really identify myself as a pilgrim. After all I hadn't walked at all, yet. Walking through town with my backpack on was just really odd to me. A pilgrim belongs in the open landscape, I thought. 
As I awoke the next morning, my phone showed it being 7am. Apparently everybody else I shared the dormitory with had already departed. I was gripped by a nervous sensation, packed up all my belongings in a hurry and left as fast as I could. I followed the yellow arrows through town and down to the estuary, where an old bridge, ressembling the style of the Eiffel Tower, crossed the river Minho, into Spain. So far it wasn't too hard to follow the trail, I was content. Soon after I threw away all the papers I printed out at home, which described the path meticulously, meter by meter. 
The sun started rising higher and it got warmer. Now I was in Galicia, the northwestern Province of Spain. A rush of happiness came over me: Now my adventure was really starting!



On this first day of my pilgrimage I walked 23 kilometers, through forests, over tiny old roads that were no longer in use and through the industrial outcrops of the small town O Porriño, which was my goal for the day. By the time I arrived in O Porriño I had no doubt when it came to identifying myself as a pilgrim. I was exhausted from the heat and the concrete under my feet. I checked in at the local albergue and stretched out on the bed for a while. 
After a couple of hours and some lunch I already felt restless again and was wondering what was awaiting me tomorrow. This restlessness unfortunately became my companion for the rest of the trip. There was so much time to just relax and hang out, but I just couldn't make use of it. I had a hard time falling asleep and even staying asleep during the nights. Every morning I woke up with a rush of adrenaline and felt driven to hurry up and away. And I didn't even know why. Every day I was one of the first arriving at the next albergue, often even before it had opened it's doors at 2pm. 


Being by myself, I didn't have to slow down for anyone, I took to few breaks and never even dat down for a lunch or a snack in one of the restaurants along the way. 
Unsurprisingly I started hating the Camino de Santiago more and more. 
It was like a nightmare to me, like a parallel world with no escape. Looking back, this perspective seems overly dramatic and exaggerated, especially when referring to a walk of merely 120km in easy terrains. The lack of sleep and the feeling of isolation made it feel very real though. In the end I was blind for the experience I was having and looking back I can say without a doubt that I simply had a panic attack. I honestly felt like I was drowning. I ended up in a hostel room by myself, unable to sleep or eat, throwing up and shaking all over. And this was only one day before arriving to Santiago. One day, or some twenty kilometers, but it felt so out of reach. As that point I didn't even care about the pilgrimage anymore. In the end I got picked up by my then boyfriend, who drove me back home to Porto, where I finally got out of the vicious circle I felt trapped in. 


After this experience I wasn't to sure if I still liked the concept of a pilgrimage. It wasn't the trails fault that things had gone wrong, it was my own. 
Only a week later I went back and completed the last day of the Caminho Português into Santiago. Walking through the town, approaching the big square with the cathedral and holding the document that confirmed my pilgrimage in hands, certainly felt awesome. I had really earned this one. 
But still I wasn't too sure if I actually enjoyed this experience. Nine months laster I was back in Valença. where I had also started the year before, only this time with a friend of mine and less insecure. This trip became a much more positive one- our week was filled by conversations, rich meals in galician restaurants and exhausting days in rather hot weather. 



Since all good things are three, I completed the same route one more time in march 2014, with my now husband. It was important to me to share all these impressions from my previous experiences, which are impossible to transmit just by telling stories about it. 
We had a pleasant week with quite bad weather, as it can be expected in march and ended up even continuing to Fisterra, the westernmost point of continental Spain, 90km from Santiago. As that point I was already more familiar with hiking equipment, which made the walk a lot more comfortable. The company of a friend or partnet is a huge factor when going on a trip, a hike or apilgrimage, at least for me. Together with another person it is so easy to just live in the moment, sit down and relax. Small and big experiences want to be shared, there is an outlet for thoughts and feelings. A beautiful view or a taste meal are worth so much more when enjoyed in company.





I gave pilgrimage on my own another chance in late summer 2014, when I embarked on a stretch of Camino del Norte, the trail that leads along the Bay of Biscay. In the meanwhile I had gotten so familiar with hiking, spending a night in a bunk bed and living out of my backpack, that it didn't seem like a big deal. To be honest I don't even remember a so many details from this walk, because it didn't really touch me that much.
I enjoyed walking by the sea, taking off my shoes and standign barefoot in the water, spending the afternoons hanging out and eating a lot of delicious spanish food.





At this point I felt ready for something more secluded, closer to nature and with proximity to the mountains. The Caminos are quite urban and one can never walk many hours without seeing or hearing cars or walking on concrete. Some might argue that the most important part of a pilgrimage is the spirituality. For my part I'm not a catholic and foreign to their rituals and believes. From my point of view, if there is a god or a bigger force, it clearly exists within nature. I don't need to visit churches or walk on a trail that leads to a cathedral. Standing atop any mountain range I can appreciate how mighty and incredbly beautiful this earth is. In this way the Camino de Santiago has taught me a lot and I'm happy to have discovered how sublime nature is, superior to anything manmade.




A glimpse of some wilder landscape on the Camino was possible in January 2015, when we headed out to experience a bit of snow on O Cebreiro, one of the higher points of the Camino Francés. Of course the snow there never really lasts long, nor is it deep enough to go on skis or snowshoes, but just walking uphill with the trail hidden underneath a layer of snow and glittery white everywhere in the trees was magical. In the evening it became really windy and the snowflakes danced past the window of the albergue while we were sitting in the kitchen, having dinner. It was magical and truly stunning, even more because snow on the Iberian Peninsula is not all too common and therefore a real treat. 
Even this winter, in February 2016, we had the chance to see one of the more wild and beautiful spots of all Caminos, the Collado Lepoeder, highest point of the Camino Francés, located in the Pyrenees. 

This was my last Camino experience so far, but I will alway keep the adventures on these trails in memory, as the beginning of my discovery of the outdoors. 



Friday, 1 January 2016

New Year's Eve in the forest

I'd rather spend New Year's Eve in the forest than downtown.



Instead of going to a party or looking at the fireworks, we spent the last/first night of the year sleeping in a shelter just outside of Gothenburg.
I'd chose sitting by the fire with some friends anytime again over the noise of the city on this night. 








Happy New Year 2016! 




Thursday, 31 December 2015

Learning what to bring on a trip, or: evolution of my gear

Hiking in northern Spain, 2011 style. 


Learning what to bring on a trip

or 

Evolution of my gear


As I happen to frequently take pictures of all the gear I bring on a trip, I have an overview over how my setup has changed. I haven't been into serious hiking for all too long, but my gear, what kind of clothes and food I bring, has already changed a lot. 

Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures of my gear on the Camino de Santiago I walked in 2011, 2012 and winter 2014. I absolutely don't remember what I brought back then but it would be interesting to know. The only picture I have is the one below, of my cotton packpack ready for the Caminho Português in 2011. It's a 50 liter pack and I hiked in summer... my sleeping bag was way too warm and big. I mean, it doesn't even fit into the pack! 

                                             
Caminho Português 2011


But to be honest, I had no money at all back then and buying a second sleeping bag just because my other one is too big and warm, was not really an option. What else I remember from that trip was that I had long cotton pants that I didn't use a single time, also I walked in a heavy skirt, H&M cardigan and with tennis shoes on. Unsurprisingly I was sweating a lot in my clothes and I had aweful blisters from day one of the trip. It never occured to me though that it was because of my clothes, I just accepted it as it was. 

What else would you wear on a 120km hike? Blundering in september 2011. 
In 2012 hiking for me was all about wearing Nike running gear from head to toe. Way better than H&M cotton.

I know that there's different opinions about this, but I don't think (anymore) that Fjällräven cotton clothes are optimal for glacier hiking, or any hiking really. Too heavy, too bulky, too warm. Sold all of that stuff.
February 2014, Solheimarjokull, Iceland. 


Some years later I finally discovered the existance of hiking gear and clothes that need less than three days to dry after they become sweaty. Still there was a quite limited perspective on what was available, but I think that's perfectly natural when you are just getting in to a new hobby. At first it's always hard to see what you really need, what products are just useless and which are your personal favorites. It's a process of buying, trying it out, selling stuff second hand and starting over. 
Here's two pictures of my first Kungsleden in summer 2014. Since then I have changed basically everything you can see in this picture. The sleeping bag was colder than sleeping naked, the hiking poles broke right after this trip, the compression bag was incredible heavy and bulky, the water bladder leaked and got permanently green on the inside (blergh...). The gas stove is not bad but very sensitive to wind and quite slow. Why I brought several meters thick rope and a headlamp (midnight sun) is still a mistery to me...
I still have the gore-tex jacket though and it's still awesome, same for the Lifestraw water filter (that you don't need in Lappland though) and my compass. I also still use the first aid kit which I restock accordingly to the trip I'm on. 


Taking a look at the food I brought... it's actually not too bad. It just lacks some fresh stuff and there's definitely too little proteins and fat in the picture. I remember that I was dreaming about cheese, fries and oily stuff. Nowadays I would be bringing a salami, a little bottle of olive oil (I'm not a big fan of butter) and more canned fish. If I had space maybe also some fruit or veggies for the first days.


Here's what I brought on a snowy trip in Jämtland in the end of September 2014. I finally got better hiking poles and a better sleeping bag and sleeping pad. If your sleeping equipment is bigger than your backpack and heavy as a stone, it just can't work out. I also got some durable, light metal cutlery, which I'm still very fond of. 
I still use most of these clothes, besides the gaiters that were not breathable at all and made my legs sweat that much, I could have stepped as well in any puddle around. After this trip I swapped out my drinking bottle for a Nalgene. The aluminum bottle from Sigg was freezing every night and ended up leaking all over my sleeping matress which willingly sucked up half a liter of water. Not so nice in a cold night...


In March 2015 I went skiing on Kungsleden and spent a week in Abisko. I didn't camp though, so my packing doesn't include a kitchen or a sleeping pad. I still think that this is quite a good setup and I would bring basically the same on a similar trip. Of course I also brought skiing boots, they're just not in the picture. The sneakers I brought are a bit too heavy and in the meanwhile I got some secondary shoes that I can wear indoors or just for going to the outhouse that are less than half the weight of these. I sold some of my sweaters and ski underwear on a flea market in summer and substituted them by merino wool products. Wool is just the warmest and most comfortable material. 
The sleeping bag felt a bit too heavy for me, with 1,6kg. I recently sold it and ordered a new one from Roberts.pl that will be only about 800 grams while having the same comfort temperature. 



In June 2015 I went for a two week camping trip in Lappland again. There was so much snow left that we went on snowshoes, it was actually not that different from March...
I try to bring all my socks and underwear in wool and go lightweight. The Smart Wool socks are so warm, fast drying and never start smelling, that it's enough to bring two pairs for the whole trip. One pair that I wear during the day and one pair for the evening and night. 
The crampons and the Therm-a-rest didn't make the cut and I left them at home. 

A look into the Trangia kitchen. The idea is to fill out all small spaces and bring just as much as needed. There's no need to bring more detergent or more than half a sponge for washing the dishes. 
Around the cooking pot you can see all other kinds of stuff I brought. I don't save on lighters, matches and a fire steel. 



I'm being realistic though and know that in a couple of years I will look back at these pictures and think 'was I crazy?'. Or just imagine how it will be, looking back twenty years from now!?
Picking gear and equipment, improving it, changing it,... is really just one of my hobbies and I think it's a lot of fun. I'm not regretting any of the "poor" choices I've made in the past, all of the blisters I got from Lidl socks and pain I had from my too heavy backbacks. I think it's interesting to evolve and be able to look back to see where you've come from. 

Sunday, 13 December 2015

Dreaming about next year's big hike

The incredible feeling of finishing a trail, of coming to the top. 


Now in December the days are short and dark. The best thing, especially at work, is to dream about my plans for next year. At this point I don't want to call it "planning" yet, cause I still haven't decided for a specific hike. 
A big inspiration for me is the norwegian adventurer Lars Monsen, who has spent years of his life in the Scandinavian wilderness. I recently got two of his books and especially the story about his year long hike through Norway is an absolute inspiration. In 1988 he and his friend Trond decided to walk along the Norwegian border, all the way from Russia to the south of the country. Even considering that the conditions have changed a lot since then, the book gives me the awesome feeling that I can make happen anything that I dream about. 

Mixing up languages- one in German one in Norwegian

 I can't even say what attracts me so much about a long hike. I guess it's the feeling of adventure, of doing something unusual, outside of the time frame of a normal holiday. Also it's the concept of "holiday" that I don't like. Holiday is a week or so to take a rest and get a break from work in order to relax. What I want to do is (at least in my mind) not a holiday. It's not an expedition either, since others have done it before, it's an adventure, a task that I give myself, an experience I want to have in my life. 

Of course I can't even be sure I will stick to my plan. What if I get tired of walking? If I start to feel bored, worn out, if my body hurts, if I feel lonely or lost? 
I know all these things can and most of them will happen, to some extend at least. What I will try is to overcome the negative feelings, wait it out, see if it gets better and maybe afterwards realize how overcoming these problems made me stronger. 

Even giving up before finishing the hike is of course a possibility but I will try to avoid that, of course. One thing that can help to overcome situations in which I will want to give up is for instance this blog, or signing up for an "official" hike, such as Gröna Bandet or Norge på Langs. Knowing that there is something specific to archieve, that I can count the kilometers backwards to point X and that some people are virtually following my trip is definitely a huge motivation. 
Other than that, signing up for anything seems a bit pointless of course, since I would need to follow specific rules, which takes away a part of the freedom of the hike. But because of the motivational aspect I will probably still do it. 




Monday, 7 December 2015

A windy day in the forest.

I'm still amazed places like this exist on earth.
This morning I woke up to the sound of the trees swaying around and small branches flying against the window. It was definitely too windy to try to go higher up on the mountains, above the treeline. In the mountain station there is a cool weather station and some information about wind chill factor. For some reason I'm a real nerd when it comes to weather oberservation and I love the automatic calculation of the felt temperature. 
(The minimum temperature doesn't show on this picture. It changes between the measured temperature and how long ago this was measured)

Here's some more about the effective/felt temperature

I tried some x-country skiing, but the tracks were ruined by the wind and melting of the last days. 

great.

Later on I went backcountry skiing in the forest and tried to take a little video of it. It's not exactly action sports, so consider it a relaxation video ;). My skiing, which is otherwise of course perfect, got a little bit worse by holding my phone in one hand all the time. I had both skiing poles and both gloves in the other hand and basically nothing to push or balance myself. So all mistakes or any whacky style you see is of course only due to that. 

So here it is, my first (shaky) video: 





And some more pics of the amazing midwinter light! 


STF mountain station

Everything on the other side of the lake is Norway.

Another untimely sunset at 14.30 pm. 


Sunday, 6 December 2015

A lot of reindeer and a bit of skiing



This morning I woke up to a beautiful sunrise and no cloud in the sky. I got ready quickly, to not miss any of the daylight and got my equipment from the car. Such a nice feeling to stand on the skis again! 
As soon as I got away from the cross country track though the snow showed it's true face and it was a crust of ice with some melted slush underneath. Needlees to say it was very very hard to go uphill in these conditions. I have no skins on my skis (because I don't own any) and it felt a lot like going on an escalator that goes the wrong way. After about 45 minutes I looked back and I realized that I wasn't going anywhere. So I decided to drop my plans of getting to the top of Jakobshöjden for today. The way down took me about three minutes.
As I was already rushing downhill, I continued to the nearby lake and then up again to the mountain station. 







I drove to Idre, which is 40km away, to look for some skins, fuel the car and do some shopping. On the way I encountered at least a hundred reindeer that were licking the salt of the street. They are completely crazy about the salt that is used by the snowplow in order to make the road less slippery! Some moved away as the car approached, others couldn't resist and continued to lick the asphalt, even as I was half a meter away. I got out of the car several times just to look at them. One even came to me and sniffed on my hand. Unfortunately for the reindeer my hands were not salty.


would you guys mind to move a little? 

Nipfjällsjugan

"Got some salt?"

Sámi flag, as Idre is Sweden's southern most part of Sápmi

Storsätern Kapell

3 pm sunset over the STF Fjällstation